Product Review: Tensage SCA Intensive Serum 40

Word on the Street/Company Claims: Cryptomphalus Aspersa, a type of snail which has evolved to heal itself with it's own secreted Glycoproteins and growth factors, is the source for this concentrated anti-aging serum. SCA is used both for post-procedure (when you REALLY have to kick up the healing process) and to heal sun-damaged or aged skin in a daily home-care regimen. This particular product is in ampoule-form, and contains the highest concentration of SCA. Used either daily for 7 days and then one time per week, or once in-office followed by 3 days in a row (then weekly after that), this growth factor promotes healing and skin health. Additional benefits include:

  • Helping to repair skin damage caused by environmental smoke and toxins
  • Helping skin recover from the effects of sun damage
  • Helping skin heal after laser and aesthetic treatments

The stuff dreams are made of. Thanks little Aspersa!Appropriate for who?:

Those who are concerned with anti-aging or preventative maintenance, those who may be healing from a procedure, dry skin, mature skin

NOT so good for:

Very, very reactive/sensitive skin types may detect tingling when this product is applied. Anyone who experiences irritation should call their skin care provider.

Totally Fabuliz: (Favorite part):

This serum feels like an in-office treatment... but you can have it at home whenever you want! I love this after a dermaplaning! Although it's got an elegant serum-consistency, it absorbs completely and does not make me feel oily or break out. It feels like it brightens and smoothes after using it once.

Just OK: n/a! I love it.

Needs work: n/a!

Star Rating:

★★★★4 Stars:  Pretty much deserves a Nobel Peace Prize, want it/need it/ have to have it!

Here I'm attemting to demonstrate the consistency... a little hard to see, but there were no snails around at the time!Misc Notes/Other need-to-know's:

-Depending on how dry I am when I apply it, I can feel a brief tingle or warmth sensation. It only lasts for a moment, and doesn't bother me. I understand this to be the vehicle, which then evaporates.

-The ampoules can be used in several different ways, ask your skin care professional in what intervals they recommend using it.

-Check out my Post on Biopelle's Tensage SCA technology here

Bottom Line:

While I still love the technology behind the highly concentrated HUMAN growth factor in TNS Recovery Complex and TNS Essential Serum, this natural growth factor offers a different approach... with a fun-to-use, cosmetically elegant edge.

As far as it feels, this is the stuff dreams are made of. Others who have tried it agree. And who doesn't love a little instant gratification, backed with some good anti-aging science??

Well done, little snails! We thank you!

STAR RATING KEY:

★1 Star: Might pass this one up

★★2 Stars: Okay for the money

★★★3 Stars: Really nice product, I’d buy it

★★★★4 Stars: Pretty much deserves a Nobel Peace Prize, want it/need it/ have to have it!

Product Review: Skinceuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense SPF 50

Word on the Street/Company Claims: “This groundbreaking, weightless, 100% physical sunscreen provides water-resistant broad spectrum protection with transparent titanium dioxide and zinc oxide (Z-Cote®*). Enhanced with artemia salina, a plankton extract, this lightweight sunscreen increases skin defenses and resistance to UV and heat stress.

Color-infused technology enhances natural skin tone and boosts daily radiance.”

Appropriate for who?:

Normal, Combination,  Oily, Sensitive… pretty much everyone!

NOT so good for:

For the darkest Fitzpatrick skin types, I suppose the powder-finish would be less ideal, as it could look a bit light/dry-ish. This being said, it is still better than almost any other physical-only formulation I’ve used on dark skin.

Those who desire a dewey, super-hydrated finish may not prefer the mattefying quality of this product.

Totally Fabuliz: (Favorite part):

Copy-Cats have tried with similar consistencies and claims, but product is unique and fabulous because of it’s PHYSICAL-ONLY, chemical-sunscreen-FREE  formulation. This means more broad-spectrum protection with less irritation- this is normally only achieved with HEAVY, white creams!

Just OK:

I wish the larger, limited-edition 4.2 fl oz size could be available all year round!!

Size DOES matter... pictured here is the limited edition mega-size, next to the regular 1.7 fl ozNeeds work:

The smaller, ‘regular’ 1.7 fl oz has a screw-on top. I’d love to see the flip top from the limited edition size make it’s way to this always-available version.

Star Rating:

4 STARS!!!★★★★

★1 Star: Might pass this one up

★★2 Stars: Okay for the money

★★★3 Stars: Really nice product, I’d buy it

★★★★4 Stars: Pretty much deserves a Nobel Peace Prize, want it/need it/ have to have it!

Misc Notes/Other need-to-know's:

-Shake it before you use it, so it mixes up thoroughly.

-I’m obsessed with this very-slightly tinted formulation because takes the “white” out of a titanium/zinc sunscreen. This product may also be the only sunscreen that men will readily use, because of the clean/non-goopy finish. It leaves a silky, natural and texture afterward, and almost feels like a favorite makeup primer.

Bottom Line:

No, it doesn’t smell like coconuts, and it won’t make your eyes sting either- all of our usual sunscreen-skipping excuses are flattened. Well done, Skinceuticals!

Practice Safe Sun, kids! And don't forget to re-apply!!

"I LOVE re-applying Suncreen!" ...Said no one. Ever.

So, even as an anti-aging obsessed skin-cancer prevention advocate, I have to be honest: reapplying sunscreen is the pits. Maybe you have makeup on... maybe your hands aren't clean and there isn't a sink nearby... maybe you just don't feel like slathering goop all over the place! Here's a nice solution to the re-application challenge: Sunscreen powder. If you haven't tried one of these, it's worth a go. Mostly all of them are appropriate for anyone 6 months of age and over, and they are NOT MAKEUP. This means you can put it over your existing makeup, or apply it to an unsuspecting husband, boyfriend, or son.

Here's a link to my favorite one so far, Colorescince Sunforgettable: http://jxeqr.jklky.servertrust.com/product_p/brush50.htm

Now you have NO excuses! Ahahahahaha!!! (Evil Laugh)I would personally get the medium, (I am a somewhat fair caucasian) because the light is pretty darn light and the darkest one can start to look really dark and almost muddy on light or medium skin if you reapply more than once (the whole reason we are using sunscreen powder, right? ...to re-apply!!!)

If you don't already own a spray brush cleaner, I would probably get one so you can clean the brush in between uses.  GloMinerals is my favorite, who's brush cleaner actually smells AMAZING (almost like strawberries, but better!) and dries a little faster than some: http://www.gloprofessional.com/brush-cleaner

Now get out there and re-apply!! :)

Fabulous Lashes without Batting an Eye?

I’ve been getting a lot of questions about Latisse lately, so I thought I’d throw something together with my personal tips and some official information, too! 1)   Latisse rocks, but it’s $$$: Here’s a video of how I like to store and use my disposable brushes so you can get more use out of each package. This is considered off-label, meaning it’s not necessarily the way the product is labeled for use- so always do what your doctor or skincare professional recommends!

Click on the image to see the you-tube vid!2)   Let’s not get Crazy: I’ve heard of patients using a makeup brush to apply the product… I would NOT recommend this, as Latisse does not have a preservative in it. Hygiene is of course very important, especially with the eye-area, so stick with the disposables for sure.

3)   Night Owl: Only use Latisse at night, with your contacts out and makeup off. Contacts can actually absorb the product, so be sure not to cut corners here. Apply your eye products and treatment creams first, and Latisse will be the very last step.

4)   Browing out: An off-label use of Latisse is applying it to the eyebrows. I did that once for a period of time to experiment, and found that it would not grow hair where there wasn’t hair already, but that it did make individual brow hairs a bit darker and longer, too, contributing to a bit of a fuller effect.

5)   Changing Eye Color?!?: I think when patients hear this, they freak out and think their blue eyes could turn brown and vice versa- thankfully this is not the case.  To summarize, when Allergan did a 5000 patient study of the Lumigan version of this product (used IN the eye) for the treatment of glaucoma, there was a small percentage of people with hazel eyes that had darkening of the gold-flecks in their eye. This change was found to be lasting. If you have hazel eyes, consider if that would bother you, as it could be a risk… important to consider that it was only happening to a small % of the people using the solution IN the eye, like an eye-drop, which we are NOT doing with Latisse. Other eye colors have not been found to change or darken.

6)   No biggie?: There is a chance that you can get darkening of the lash line where you apply the Latisse, since it’s increasing melanin (and making your lashes darker!) it happened to me, but the trade-off for awesome lashes is just fine with me. It’s kind of a light pink, so it covers easily with a light shadow/I don’t even really notice it. Some of our patients who already have dark eye areas think twice about using Latisse. Thankfully, when you stop using it, it goes away… so no biggie if you ask me.

7)   Keep the Faith:  Latisse can take up to 16 weeks for full results… this is because when you first start using it, its treating the lashes that haven’t grown in yet. So, it can be hard to use a product every night when you don’t see much happening, but Latisse WORKS, so keep up the good work, and hang in there for fabulous lashes!

Here’s a link to Allergan’s Latisse page, please read up for full Rx info and more official business!

Product Review: Obagi Medical's Hydrate Facial Moisturizer

1.7 Ounces of Glorious Hydration: Obagis HYDRATEWord on the Street/Company Claims: “Hydromanil technology” delivers moisture in a 2 Part Action.

Part 1: There are Hydromanil matrix molecules that stay on the surface of the skin to reduce LOSS of moisture.

Part 2: A water-bearing 3D matrix captures and hold on to water within the skin, continuously releasing moisturizing compounds, increasing moisture for at least 8 hours after you put it on.

Appropriate for who?:

It’s designed for every skin type, and I would agree with that after using it.

It’s got a medium consistency that would please a dryer skin-type, but it dries mostly matte and does not feel heavy or look greasy, which oilier types would love. It is mild enough that I would recommend it to people who are post- chemical peel or using retinoids (or other treatment products) that could compromise the skin too!

Here's what it looks like right out of the bottle. Pretty, no?Totally Fabuliz: (Favorite part): It didn’t make me break out (Just look at me wrong and I’ll break out!) but I really feel that it improved my dry skin.  I'm also not seeing an increase in pore congestion or any indicators of build-up. There is no scent, so I didn’t have to decide if I liked the smell or not. (no fragrance also usually means non-sensitizing and non-irritating, which is a score!)

Just OK: I suppose the packaging could be splashier? That’s getting picky though.

Needs work: Nothing!

Star Rating: 4 STARS!! ★★★★

★1 Star: Might pass this one up

★★2 Stars: Okay for the money

★★★3 Stars: Really nice product, I’d buy it

★★★★4 Stars: Pretty much deserves a Nobel Peace Prize, want it/need it/ have to have it!

Misc Notes/Other Need-to-Know's:

It's Non-comedogenic and allergy-tested. Obagi says that there is a 51% improvement in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after 8 hours, and a 92% improvement in moisture content of the skin within 2 hours.

I would definitely buy that, since their clinical studies were performed using a Tewameter ® (funny name!) and a Corneometer… this wasn’t an interview of 3 of your best friends who thought they liked it ('3 out of 4 women agree')!

They used a Tewameter... yup, it's a real thing. :) The consistency is medium... not too heavy, not too light. The Goldilocks of Moisturizer??

Good work Obagi… I will be recommending this one for sure. 

5 Things to AVOID after a Chemical Peel Treatment

ImageDespite some really awesome (in my opinion!) post-care instruction sheets,  every once in a while we’ll get a phone call from a post-peel patient in distress. These clients, no matter how aesthetically-seasoned, occasionally forget the warnings of their providers, or maybe could have underestimated some post-peel sensitivity (maybe just a bit.) Here are 5 things to surely avoid that are sometimes forgotten in the days after a chemical peel: (-and please always follow the instructions given to you by your skincare office-)

1) Over-moisturizing:

If you over-moisturize, you can make the peeling skin too soft, which can  cause it to come off before it’s ready. This can leave the fresh, baby-like skin underneath exposed and possibly compromised. An additional disadvantage of over-moisturizing includes possibly s-l-o-w-i-n-g the peeling stage… and if you’ve ever had a peel, you know that nobody wants that!! Use just enough moisturizer to make you feel comfortable.

2) Hair-removal:

This includes laser-hair removal on any peeled area (you’ll want to follow your skin-care office’s specific instructions, but I wouldn’t treat someone with laser for at least 10-14 days).  Waxing and shaving are also off-limits because they can remove the skin, so be sure to avoid both. If you have to, simply tweeze.

3) Picking!!:

This one is easier said than done FOR SURE. Its hard not to pick off any little flakes that might be staring back at you in the mirror. But, try to remember that the flakey dead statum-corneum is actually protecting skin that isn’t necessarily ready to be exposed yet. So, even though its annoying…hands off!

4) Excessive Sweating:

Depending on the strength of the treatment, some peels will cause the top layer of skin to get crispy or tight like a thin plastic-wrap… and this could trap sweat underneath the skin. A little bit usually doesn’t cause an issue, but if you visit your usual hot yoga class, you might end up looking like a freshly waxed car after a rain.  Sweat gets trapped under the skin and forms little pockets that look just like those little beads of water… but these droplets don’t wipe off… Yikes!

If this happens, don’t panic- they only look alarming, and aren’t harmful. Give your skin care expert a call and ask how they recommend handling it.

Image

  5) Vacation-Related Activities:

You’ll want to avoid several activities that I like to classify under: ‘Things you’d likely do on Vacay’. These things include Sun Exposure, Swimming (keeping skin wet for extended periods of time AND Chlorine) and having treatments like Facials.- yes, even the ‘natural’ ones.

Remember that we want to treat the skin as if it’s very sensitive in the days after a peel, even if it feels or looks normal. Folllow your provider’s recommendations for post-care and continued treatments, and play it safe with products, sun, and picking, even if it’s tough. Your skin will thank you!!!

Here's a great link to a super-compliant, 5 Star non-picker friend who's documented her experience: check it out!

And always be sure to play by the rules for less irritation and great results from your exfoliation!

Happy Peeling!

Practice Safe Sun: Faux Tanning

I just got home from the fabulous Cosmos Beauty Bar, the home of  -you guessed it- Cosmopolitans (and wine, and coffee, and martinis!) AND simultaneous high-quality beauty treatments by amazing professionals. This cutie pie place is located conveniently in my neighborhood in the suburbs of Chicago, and offers spray tans, waxing, and all kinds of fabulous nail services. Although I did not happen to imbibe today, I did indulge in a pedi and a spray tan… which got me thinking about spray tans, how they work, and why they rock. Don't look TOO close... but these runner's feet have been polished to the maximum extent of cute at Cosmos.

It seems that the first 'fake tan' was available around 1960, when Coppertone® came out with the first sunless-tanning product -- QT® or Quick Tanning Lotion. I understand that this was an orange-nightmare of sorts. Yikes.

Anyway, things have come a long way since then, and there are all kinds of formulations and application methods to suit your fancy. The ones that I have the most experience with are DHA self-tanners. DHA is actually a type of sugar. Who knew?

According to the FDA’s website: “One commonly used ingredient in these products is dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a color additive that darkens the skin by reacting with amino acids in the skin's surface”

If you are having a spray tan, or spraying yourself (with a tan in a can), a fine mist of product containing DHA (Dihydroxyacetone) blankets the skin lightly. Lotion products also contain DHA. It turns out that DHA does not produce the same melanin as a "real tan" (by stimulating melanin levels), but it does create the look of a tan appearance by turning the upper layers of the skin brown. DHA activity only takes place in the upper layer of the skin (epidermis) as amino acid proteins and epidermis skin cells mingle and party.

Dihydroxyacetone parties with epidermal skin cells: "Epi-DAMN, girl! Let's Mingle!" (yes, I drew this!)

Typically, color develops somewhere between 2 - 24 hours from the application and the intensity is depends on how much DHA in the product. More DHA=More Brown.

If you’re having an “airbrush” tan, or a spray tan applied by an individual, it usually means that you’ll be in your undies in front of a stranger… but really, there’s nothing they haven’t seen… so try not to worry about it. It’s less than 10 minutes, and the result is AWESOME, custom, and usually really dang perfect.

If you go to an LA Tan, or similar tanning boutique, they will also offer a spray tan or UV-Free tan via a booth. This is more private, usually a bit cheaper, but not as flawless as the airbrush. Oh, and it feels fumy! I try to hold my breath as much as I can, but I’m sure the poor employee on staff does not want to find me passed out in there... so I do feel like I end up breathing some of it in- just a bit worrisome for me, but it’s still GOTTA be safer than UV tanning, so I’m still doing it. Take that, tanning beds!

If you’re a DIY-type, here are a few of my favorite at home self-tan products:

Playboy (yes, they have tanners!) Glitz Celebrity Sunless Spray …AMAZING. Love the lotion too, but you might want to try applying it with one of those disposable sponge brushes that painters use for corners… it’s pretty dark (scary) when it comes out of the bottle…

Victoria’s Secret Beach Sexy Instant Bronzing Shimmer Lotion

Fake Bake Airbrush Self Tanning Spray

Jergens Natural Glow+ Firming (I generally don’t bother with the fair to medium levels… go for the gold! Err, GOLDEN with medium/tan!) This is also awesome for maintaining a spray tan! Caution, this one has a bit more scent than the others in the line.

For Face: Clarins Face Self Tanning Mouse SPF 15… extra points for SPF, Clarins!

The take-away from today: It may take some trial and error (though we are much better off these days than in 1960!) but it's important to find a bronzer, a spray tan, or a self-tanner that works for you.

...because always remember, kids: we all need to practice SAFE SUN...  your skin will thank you!