There are many different types of great resurfacing modalities and brands, and the treatment goes by many names. Fraxel, Fractionated (DOT) CO2, erbium (microlaser peel or arctic peel, for example), and Halo (ablative and non-ablative fractional mix), are just a few of the great technologies available to resurface and ‘anti-age’. These fantastic treatments can be […]
Read MoreMy friends are going to Vegas... Here is the product they NEED to be using
In honor of my friends' upcoming trip to Vegas, I thought I would share my recommendation for anti-aging during the summer in a hot climate... And what product I loaded them up with to make their trip as skin-safe as possible.
It turns out that infrared radiation will absolutely zap your collagen and put your skin into a free-radical frenzy, creating damage. Read about that in another post I wrote, here.
A new, important factor in everyday skin protection, IR-protection is *of course* especially important when you're planning a vacay. Infrared manifests itself as heat on the skin, so you could imagine the havoc that hanging out poolside in Vegas could create.
Here's what I loaded them up with for their suitcases (also in mine when I was there in May for the Vegas Cosmetic Surgery meetings!):
SkinMedica’s Total Defense + Repair SPF 34 Tinted (also available without tint)
...is my absolute summer go-to superscreen. It features:
- A cosmetically-elegant, easy-to use and wear consistency: creamy, but not greasy
- A semi-matte finish offers light, complexion-flattering coverage
- Tons of specially-formulated antioxidants for both UV and IR protection
Remember, it's important to protect from UV and IR on a daily basis, not just when you're sitting poolside.
So give it a try this summer, don't forget to reapply, and until next time: stay fabulous, my friends!
Life Savers: The Best Products To Use After A Peel - For Dry and Mature Skin Types
If you've ever had a chemical peel (maybe you're recovering from one now) you know that the days after the treatment can be interesting... From trying to apply makeup over dry, flaky skin to explaining to co-workers or significant others that no, you don't have dried milk on your chin, and yes, this is supposed to be happening.
Besides trying to look as normal as possible, it's very important to use gentle products that won't irritate the skin -or worse for social scenarios- cause additional dryness.
I thought I'd share my favorite moisturizer and recovery products to use post-procedure, but as always: be sure to follow the instructions given to you by your skin care professional or doctor, and always use plenty of SPF!
The Best Post-Peel Products for Dry or Mature Skin Types
Neocutis BioSerum While I believe everyone should use a growth factor all the time, BioSerum is one of my favorites for drier skin conditions because of its elegantly milky consistency. Neocutis' most potent blend of growth factors, this hylauronic acid (humectant) rich serum comforts and calms while speeding up the recovery process.
La Mer CRÈME DE LA MER While I myself am not aware of any data to support the efficacy of the seaweed based "Miracle Broth™" that makes this product so well-known, I can vouch for its protective, skin barrier qualities. Warm it between clean hands before applying on fragile skin (it spreads easier that way). Enjoy the experience as you smoothe this somewhat fragrant, decadent, oil-based Creme on to reinforce the skin's barrier and prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
SkinMedica Ceramide Treatment Cream Formulted with skinmedica's famous (and proven) growth factors, this decadent -but not too heavy- cream heals, protects, and is also one of my favorites for daily winter anti-aging/moisturizing.
Obagi Hydrate Luxe This staple product should be in your cabinet right now! A more-emollient version of Obagi's ultra-popular Hydrate formula, Hydrate Luxe contains the same fabulous ability to deliver moisture to the dermis consistently for 8 hours!
Dermalogica Barrier Repair I've said it before and I'll say it again: This unique anhydrous (waterless) moisturizer has just about saved my life in the days after exfoliation. Rich in protecting and barrier-reinforcing essential fatty acids, this moisturizer is a favorite of chemical peel clients and dry skin types alike.
BONUS: Thanks to its makeup primer consistency, it smoothes flawlessly over flaky skin, fine lines and pores to disguise and moisturize. It feels like satin, and elegantly 'glues' flakes and peelies down so you can go on with your day.
May the Post-Peel Force be With You! And be sure to watch for my next editions of Life Savers: The best post-peel products for Normal, Oily and Acne-Prone, and "Trouble Spots". And until next time, stay fabulous my friends!
Life Savers: The Best Products To Use After A Peel - for Oily and Acne-Prone Skin
If you've ever had a chemical peel (maybe you're recovering from one now) you know that the days after the treatment can be interesting... From trying to apply makeup over dry, flaky skin to explaining to co-workers or significant others that no, you don't have dried milk on your chin, and yes, this is supposed to be happening.
Besides trying to look as normal as possible, it's very important to use gentle products that won't irritate the skin -or worse for social scenarios- cause additional dryness.
I thought I'd share my favorite moisturizer and recovery products to use post-procedure, but as always: be sure to follow the instructions given to you by your skin care professional or doctor, and always use plenty of SPF!
The Best Post-Peel Products for Oily or Acne-Prone Skin Types
LaRoche Posay Thermal Spring Water This versatile product is much more than a can of spray water. Rich in restoring elements like selenium, The water from the thermal springs in LaRoche Posay France has been used historically to treat burn victims, wounds, and critical skin disorders.. It's neutral pH and delicate mister makes it a gentle refresher, toner, and a great way to set mineral make up, even on a daily basis.
Skinmedica TNS Recovery Complex This potent mixture of Human Growth Factors layers under moisturizers and makeup to accelerate the healing process. A light gel formula, it absorbs quickly for a clean finish. This product is also great to use daily for anti-aging, whether you are post procedure or not!
Skinmedica UltraSheer Moisturizer This oil-free, sheer moisturizer won't cause breakouts, nor will it leave you feeling 'eh' in the moisturizing-department, as some lightweight moisturizers will. This potent formula absorbs quickly and boosts the skin's ability to protect itself with multiple forms of Vitamin C and oil-soluble E (antioxidants).
Obagi Hydrate This go-to for clean-finish, medium-weight matte moisturizer is perf' for all of you acne-prone beauties. In my many experiences over the years with Hydrate, I feel confident claiming that it will NOT break you out. I repeat: It will not make you break out.
It's a great medium-weight, middle-of-the-road consistency moisturizer for oilier types that still need hydration. The unique time release formula actually releases moisture to the dermis -yep, way down there- consistently over the course of 8 hours! Read my old-school post on it here.
May the Force be With You! And be sure to watch for my next editions of Life Savers: The best post-peel products for All Skin Types, Dry and Mature, and "Trouble Spots". And until next time, stay fabulous my friends!
Life Savers: The Best Products To Use After A Peel - For All Skin Types
If you've ever had a chemical peel (maybe you're recovering from one now) you know that the days after the treatment can be interesting... From trying to apply makeup over dry, flaky skin to explaining to co-workers or significant others that no, you don't have dried milk on your chin, and yes, this is supposed to be happening.
Besides trying to look as normal as possible, it's very important to use gentle products that won't irritate the skin -or worse for social scenarios- cause additional dryness.
I thought I'd share my favorite moisturizer and recovery products to use post-procedure, but as always: be sure to follow the instructions given to you by your skin care professional or doctor, and always use plenty of SPF!
Best for All Skin Types:
Dermalogica Barrier Repair This anhydrous (waterless) moisturizer has just about saved my life in the days after exfoliation. It smoothes over any skin type to disguise and moisturize dry skin, and feels like satin! It also delivers a powerful punch of lasting comfort and healing thanks to it's UltraCalming™ Complex formulation. A great product to include in your skin care 'wardrobe', this lipid-barrier-reinforcer is a marvelous makeup primer as well!
Skinmedica TNS Recovery Complex This potent mixture of Human Growth Factors layers under moisturizers and makeup to accelerate the healing process. A light gel formula, it absorbs quickly for a clean finish. This product is also great to use daily for anti-aging, whether you are post procedure or not!
LaRoche Posay Thermal Spring Water This versatile product is much more than a can of spray water. Rich in restoring elements like selenium, The water from the thermal springs in LaRoche Posay France has been used historically to treat burn victims, wounds, and critical skin disorders.. It's neutral pH and delicate mist application make it a gentle refresher, toner, and a great way to set mineral make up, even on a daily basis.
Neocutis BioSerum Neocutis' most potent blend of growth factors, this serum comforts and calms while speeding up the recovery process. With a slightly more milky consistency than TNS recovery complex, this serum might be a good choice if you normally lean towards the dryer side. I recommend using a growth factor as part of a daily regimen for anti-aging (also see TNS Recovery, above).
Obagi Hydrate This go-to for clean-finish, matte moisturizer is perf' for all skin types. Easy to layer over serums or under SPF, Obagi Hydrate is a great one-size-fits-all and easy to incorporate into existing regimens. The unique time release formula actually releases moisture to the dermis -yep, way down there- consistently over the course of 8 hours! Read my old-school post on it here.
May the Force be With You! And be sure to watch for my next editions of Life Savers: The best post-peel products for Dry and Mature, Oily and Acne-Prone, and "Trouble Spots". And until next time, stay fabulous my friends!
Practice safe sun and look hot doing it: The Best Self Tanners Of The Year
I spent the entire summer trying numerous self tanners, here are my top picks for 2015:
The BEST Professional Brands
Playboy Celebrity Glitz (yes, playboy brand)
This medium-consistency cream requires care when applying because of its ultra-dark color and potential for staining hands, but is so worth it! Wear gloves and/or apply with a slightly dampened sponge-mit for best results.
Pros:
• darkest and best tan
• not-orange
• no scent
• bronzing
Cons:
• Will stain hands, cuticles, everything - even if you're quick to wash after. Wear gloves or a mitt!
Norvell Dancing with the Stars Mousse
I have a new-found love for foams this year. Cleaner than sprays or airbrush, and quicker to dry than creams or lotions, I found myself defaulting to foams and mousses often. This one is my fave!
Pros:
• quick drying
• slightly bronzing
• clean finish, not dewey or heavy
• beautiful tan result!
Cons:
• must use gloves or a mitt
• doesn't smell awesome after it starts working. I like this one for overnight use only,
Tip:
• I hear the Norvell brand foam without the "dancing" endorsement is just as good and a little cheaper, but have not tried it yet. You'll save anywhere from $3-10 for trying the standard, not-endorsed formula.
The BEST Store-Bought Brands:
Victoria secret BRONZE:
This creamy, bronze lotion leaves a pretty and subtle gleam without being sparkly. Whenever I wear it, everyone always asks me what it is and where to get it!
Pros:
• bronzing
• medium consistency
• smells good
Cons:
• too many applications in a row can start to look orange
If you are in a hurry and want something fast from the store, I usually go with
Loreal Sublime Tinted Self Tanning Lotion
Pros:
• bronzing
• light sheen/shimmer
• budget-friendly
• this line also features a towlette, which I sometimes use when I'm in a hurry
• satisfyingly dark level of tan-result
Cons:
•takes quite a while to dry
• the smell (it's not terrible, but you can certainly detect that good ole' self-tanner smell after the fragrance wears down)
• a misleadingly sheer consistency and great slip when applying leads me to think I've spread it on evenly each time. Don't fall for it and take your time!
By far, the best store brand is the new Jergens Instant Sun Sunless Tanning Mousse
Pros:
• bronzing
• Dries FAST!
• budget-friendly
Cons:
•This is a gradual tanner, so you'll need to build it up slowly over the course of several days.
• the smell (it's not terrible, but you can certainly detect that good ole' self-tanner smell after the fragrance wears down)
• This product is QUICK to stain hands - even if you immediately wash after. I underestimated this. Be sure to wear gloves or a mitt!
This is a great tool for maintaining a professional spray tan, also!
The BEST New Concept:
St. Tropez Gradual Tan In-Shower Lotion
This innovative new product is a lotion you apply IN the shower (once you're finished up, with the water off). Wait 3 minutes and rinse: Wah-Lah! It's formulted with sweet almond oil so it leaves your skin smelling sweetly and feeling conditioned by not greasy. Love it!
• No need to wait for it to dry
• No icky self-tanner smell
• No streaks!
Cons:
•This is a gradual tanner, so you'll need to build it up slowly over the course of several days.
• I am a wimp, and get cold in the shower even when it's on. Despite only needing to wait 3 minutes, I get cold and find myself skipping it some days.
I hope you found a new product to experiment with from this review!
Until Next Time, Practice Safe sun and Stay Fabulous My Friends!
Acne: 6 ways to Troubleshoot when you're breaking out
Trouble-shooting causes of acne and breakouts is one of my favorite things to do. It's a fun challenge, like trying to solve a mystery. I'll always start by asking LOTS of questions, and keep it up until we get an ah-ha moment. Below is a list of some of the things I ask patients about. If you're having trouble with acne, try troubleshooting your routines and products.
1) Liquid Makeup It's a mean cycle: you break out, so you need to cover up. But liquids and creamy formulas can contribute to congestion, causing another breakout. Remember that oil is sticky, and in an acne scenario, dead skin cells and debris are already getting glued down with oil. Frequently, more coating on the surface can cause more congestion and breakouts.
Contrary to popular belief, there are mineral powder foundations that deliver high coverage. My faves for great coverage without contributing to acne:
Tip: Try a liquid foundation brush with these powders to lay down more opacity/ coverage where you need it.
2) Over-Extraction
Not every blackhead or follicular deposit is going to cause issues. And that little tiny blemish won't actually ruin your day. If you tend to break out, Hands Off!
See an esthetician for a pro extraction and ask for a conservative session. Hard truth to swallow: If you break out after a facial, (or home extraction) it might be because of over-stimulation... NOT because the skin is "purging" - an idea you'll hear suggested from time to time. Bring post-facial-breakout feedback to your skin care pro and they can adjust appropriately for your next treatment.
Tip: The use of Tretinoin, retinol, or another treatment product recommended by your doctor or esthetician can act as a pre-treatment and make extractions easier on you... and your facialist.
3) Benzoyl Peroxide and Spot Treating:
Benzoyl Peroxide is a great acne treatment. However, it works as a preventative by killing off pimples in the early stage. (Zits can take up to 90 days to form). Sometimes we feel like it helps as a spot treatment because it can be drying to an acne lesion, but you're doing yourself a disservice if you're not applying it all over. My favorite BPO is in the Obagi Clenziderm System because it's a solubilized BPO, not a micro-crystal (like other BPO). It's 1/10,000th the size of a standard BPO crystal - this means it penetrates most effectively into the follicle. Give it a try!
4) Bar Soap:
I've never met a bar of soap that I liked. Picture a bar of soap: waxy and skin-coating, dry-looking, or simply sitting in a little pool of water getting mushy: whatever it is, we just don't get along- and neither should you.
Two things about bar soap:
1) Just to physically get it into bar-form, the pH here has to be higher than other formulations like creams, gels, or liquids. This means that they can be more drying. Lets not freak out your skin any more than we need to.
2) Bacteria likes to live on bars of soap. Doctors don't seem too concerned with this from a disease-proliferating perspective (washing your hands with bar soap seems to be fine), but if we're trouble-shooting, we're trouble-shooting. I say, use a liquid, non-soap cleanser instead.
5) Use of Topical Vitamin C:
Topical Vitamin C's are great as a brightening product and anti-aging measure, but you should avoid this one when troubleshooting breakouts. In my experience, vitamin C's are not always acne-friendly and are not often recommended for those who break out easily.
That being said, Vitamin C's are great to lighten acne marks (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or PIH) from old breakouts. If you currently have active acne, get your breakouts under control first, and then consider choosing a formula meant for all or oily skin types. I prefer Phloretin CF for oily types.
6) Makeup Sponges
If you're breaking out, ditch the sponges - they harbor bacteria. If you are currently in the sponge club, really, try brushes! You can get much better coverage and get much more mileage out of your makeup. Just be sure to clean them regularly.
My favorite brush cleaners are:
Tip: If you HAVE to use a sponge, grab a bag of disposable wedges, snip them in half (so you get double the use) and throw them out EACH TIME you use them.
If you've exhausted these possibilities and you're still having trouble, see your dermatologist. They will troubleshoot further and might look at additional factors like hormones. They might also prescribe a topical or oral medication as well.
Until next time, stay fabulous my friends!
MEOW! My favorite eyeliners for a Cat Eye
I’ll admit it, I can be fickle when it comes to eyeliners. I am always on the lookout for the best - liquid, cream, space-age material, whatever! But if you’re going for a cat-eye or even just a sleek, lash-defining line, it’s got to go on perfectly.
…Oh, and also stay there once it’s on.
Here are my favorites of this moment for staying power, quality of color and usability:
They’re Real! Push-Up Liner: $24
PRO’s:
-This soft and flexible rubbery tip makes a precise line (thick or thin!) with a bevel at the end… purrfect for a cat-eye.
-This liner goes NO. WHERE. once it’s on. Ever feel like spontaneously running through a sprinkler or hanging by the pool in your perfectly placed cat-eye liner? This one is for you.
CONS:
-Once it sets, this creamy, stay-put formula doesn’t have the most color saturation I’ve seen. It would be A+ in a very very dark blackest Black kind of shade.
-Once the product has lived in your makeup bag for a while, it can dry out.
ELF Essential Expert Liquid Liner: $1
PRO’s:
-Super budget-friendly buy (no... you didn't hallucinate. This is $1)
-It’s staying power outweighs many more expensive versions
-The applicator brush is user-friendly for most 'A-typer's' (not too too long or floppy), but take your time to prevent wayward brush action.
CONS: It dries very quickly, so fix any botched spots ASAP or you’re stuck with a look you likely weren’t going for. :/.
-If you're used to a foam applicator or a shorter brush, this may not be a good fit.
PRO’s:
-The handle’s ergonomic design (hence the name) makes this liner easy to hold and guide while applying. The shape also makes for an easy application on someone else, if you happen to be helping a friend. **
- This formula is less wet going on than the ELF, but delivers almost the same depth of black. LOVE the saturation.
-The foam tip seems to hold the right amount of product, perfect for a thick OR skinny line.
CON:
-Well, I can't think of one. There it is.
MAC Fluidline $16.50
PRO’s:
-Is it a gel? Is it a cream? NO! It's Fluidline!! This awesome foolproof, waterproof winner is SUPER easy to use if you're comfortable with using a brush.
-Doesn't flake, crumble, or smudge. If it HAS to be perfect, this is your liner.
CON:
-You must be comfy with using a brush. Sometimes (especially if you get stuck doing your makeup in rush hour on the grid-locked Eisenhower like I do sometimes...) you just need convenience, too. A brush might be a home- application-only thing. In case you are in the market, however, This is the brush I suggest and personally use. (welcome to your next fave brush if you've never tried!)
I don't always review makeup... but eyeliner advice may prevent others from showing up late to dinners, events, and dates. It's almost a public service, right?? Until next time, stay fabulous, my friends!
**Product Credit: They're Real and The Curve were both donated by my best friend Kel, so I could experiment and yes: help the greater good (Those who need eyeliner reviews). Thanks, Kelly! xoxox
Drug store shout out: A Great Way to Reapply
We hear it all the time: reapply, reapply, reapply.
SPF (regardless of the sun protection factor... SPF 10, 15, 30, three-zillion, whatever) begins to break down minutes after you put it on. This is especially true when swimming or sweating.
But what about the SPF you put on your face in the morning? Many of us will put make up on over that, and go on with our day, unable or unwilling to slather creamy stuff all over to reapply.
Here's a great way to reapply without the goop: Mineral SPF 30 Brush-On Sun Defense.
My original mineral brush-on loves are Colorescience Sunforgettable and Peter Thomas Roth, but if you're not in the mood to shell out $30-$64, this is a theProductPro-approved budget-friendly version!
This great mineral spf buy ($16.99-$19.99, depending on where you buy it) is a Paraben-free, 100% vegan, and non-chemical sunscreen that looks good on many skin types.
Try keeping it in your handbag and dust on the backs of your hands, face, neck, and chest before hopping in your car to drive home from the office. Or, use it to reapply while out and about.
The Mineral Fusion website has a 15% off coupon right now if you sign up for emails, but they seem to be low on stock, depending on when you check for it. If you're the instant gratification-type, pick it up at a health food store, Amazon, or an Ulta near you!
Until Next time, Stay Fabulous my friends!
Vitamin C: it's not just for breakfast... Products that Prevent
The best product-related helpers to prevent damage to the skin are arguably antioxidants and sunscreens, which both help prevent the formation of free radicals in the first place, and also help neutralize these offenders.
Picture a knight in shining armor, swinging a sword at an evil free radical, he'd be considered the antioxidant.
My go-to, long-standing favorite antioxidants are topical Vitamin C's.
Topical vitamin C's are known to have many benefits, including:
- Neutralizing free radicals, preventing skin aging
- Helping to maintain normal cellular turnover
- Helping to build collagen
- Lightening and brightening the skin
- Reducing inflammation
- Decreasing transepidermal water loss (your skin won't leak moisture so much)
Here are just a few I love:
- Skinmedica C & E Complex This creamy, silky formulation has a satin-like consistency... Just like those makeup primers we all love. I tend to like it because of its cosmetic elegance and the lipid-soluble Vitamin C feature. Also, if you are as clumsy as I can be, the pump is very helpful. No spills! Read more about this one in my post, 3 Fast Facts: Skinmedica C and E Complex
- Skinceuticals CE Ferulic This L-ascorbic classic has been often imitated, never duplicated! Read More about it in my post, 3 Fast Facts: Skinceuticals CE Ferulic
- Skinmedica TNS Essential Serum My clients know that I refer to this one as 'the Mercedes Benz of anti-aging products'. Because, not only is there C, but lots of other potent goodies, too. Namely, growth factors, antioxidants, peptides, and alpha arbutin. Read more about it in my post, 3 Fast Facts: SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum
- Obagi C-clarifying Serum This little powerhouse is the first and the only of its kind on the market. It's really under-rated, in my opinion. Read more about it in my post, 3 Fast Facts: Obagi C-Clarifying Serum
The Need-To-Know:
How to Use Vitamin C: Use Vitamin C in the mornings after toner and before moisturizers and sunscreens to help defend skin from the onslaught of pollutants, sun, and all kinds of other threats that you'll meet out there during your busy day.
Think: I'm drinking my OJ in the morning, My skin needs its Vitamin C in the morning, too!
Oh, and don't forget the neck, chest, and the backs of the hands... they need protection, too.
Buyer Beware: Even though Vitamin C is a sort of 'knight in shining armor', it's also really unstable... always about to oxidize and die. Be sure that you don't go with just ANY vitamin C. Those that have published research or from reputable companies are the best bet.
Oxidation: If you've got a water-based C (L-ascorbic) like CE Ferulic, for example, be sure you toss it when it starts to turn orange/amber in color. This assures that your product isn't weakened or *GASP* causing oxidation. This is an ANTI-OXIDANT, for goodness sake.
Acne Patients Beware: Vitamin C's are great for many people, but acne patients should avoid: even though Vitamin C's are great to lighten acne marks from old breakouts, they are not the best choice for those currently breaking out. If you currently have active acne, get your breakouts under control first, and then consider choosing a formula meant for all or oily skin types.
Stay safe in the sun out there - and Until Next Time, Stay Fabulous My Friends!
Love Lobster?? Read On! The Top Ten Anti-Aging Foods
It's (of course) not just the products we use ON our skin that helps us fight the good fight, it's what we put iN our bodies that can help our skin, too. Make sure you're eating the right ones! Health.com brings us the top ten antiaging foods:
- Coffee (bio-actives can help fend off melanoma)
- Watermelon
- Pomegranate
- Blueberries
- Lobster (woohoo! Did we even need another reason to love lobster? It's anti-inflammatory effects can have a beneficial effect on the skin)
- Kale
- Eggs
- Walnuts
- Avocado
- Cantaloupe (this one was a surprise to me, but beta carotene makes this one a win!)
How To: Vinegar Soaks for Post-Procedure Skin
I thought it might be helpful to post a 'How-To' guide for a Vinegar Soak, a gentle way to care for delicate Post-Laser skin. White Vinegar's not-too-acidic acidity can gently cleanse the skin without causing irritation, and the cool, gentle solution is great for calming and cooling the skin when you just feel, well, Post-Procedure. Step 1:
Measure out 1/3 cup of WHITE vinegar.
Step 2: Meanwhile, boil 4 cups water (to assure it's clean)
Step 3: Combine and refrigerate until chilled.
Tip: I love to use my pyrex measuring cups, especially for the last step. Once the solution is cooled, I will store it covered, pouring out small amounts for use when I need it. That way I never contaminate the batch.
Step 4: With clean hands, dip lint-free cotton pads or soft gauze into the solution and gently dab the skin. This feels great as a cool compress, too.
Once I cleanse the skin gently by dabbing, I'll use new/fresh pads soaked in the solution to drape over the skin while I kick back for a while. It feels great to cool off and relax while you imagine how beautiful your skin is going to look. Ahhhhhh.
Step 5: Apply your post-treatment skin care products as directed
Always follow the instructions given to you by your doctor's office! And until next time, stay fabulous, my friends!
Neocutis to the Skin: 'I'm gonna need you to start the healing process, ok?'
I wanted to share a bit about my recent look into Neocutis Skin Care products, their technology, and how their growth factor 'PSP' works. Here's the scoop.
Neocutis offers a number of products that feature technology that was developed by leading Swiss researchers out of the University Hospital of Lausanne, a leading international research facility. Their claim-to-fame/ proprietary ingredient is called PSP, which they have termed the "Cadillac of Peptides".
Here are some interesting facts about PSP and how it works:
The Healing Power of Peptides
Inspired by the phenomenon of the scarless healing of fetal skin, medical researchers in Switzerland created a biotechnology process to obtain the super power proteins involved in wound healing from cultured fibroblasts. A dedicated cell bank was established for developing new wound healing and burn treatments with these amazing proteins. That same cell bank is the source of the fibroblasts that produce PSP, which is Neocutis' secret weapon. By the way, fibroblasts are the collagen producing cell found in skin.
PSP
PSP stands for Processed Skin Proteins. PSP is a mixture of Human Growth Factors, interleukins, and the other cytokines that were discovered by those Swiss scientist smarty-pants.
Ok, so it heals wounds (that's pretty cool). But what does it do for the skin's appearance?
Let's face it: aging skin is damaged. No matter what you want to primarily blame for the inflammation, damaged/aged skin is basically wounded skin. The free-radical damage (reactive oxidative species) that causes the wound (aging/ skin damage) is caused by stuff like
- glycation
- injuries to the skin
- pollution
- chronic skin conditions
- sun damage: the tanning bed you hit in high school, the baby oil/iodine days of the past, or even just daily daylight-exposure
The scientists found that even though the skin does not actually absorb the growth factors, they are proven to play what I like to think of as a game of 'telephone' with the skin when applied topically. They are able to stimulate the healing process, actually acting to 'heal' the 'wound' of the aging/damaged skin.
The result is smoothed, brightened and firmed skin, all with no color or fragrance additives. Give it a try and see what you think! Check it out here: www.neocutis.com
Until next time, stay fabulous, my friends!
Scrub-A-Dub... DOH! Turns out Microbeads are messing up the environment.
While you might have until 2019 to stock up on your favorite microbead scrubs and cleansers, let your conscience be your guide: it turns out that microbeads are polluting the Great Lakes and starting to mess up the local food chain. Illinois was first state to pass legislation on the issue, requiring companies to gradually phase out the plastic beads by 2019. California (not to be trumped in this department) may ban them sooner, possibly by 2016.
Don't worry about your fave stuff disappearing, though. Companies like L'oreal and Johnson & Johnson are on board to sub biodegradable versions ASAP, with many others to follow suit.
Read all about it here:
http://www.npr.org/blogs/thetwo-way/2014/06/10/320638770/with-concern-for-environment-illinois-bans-microbeads
http://m.bizjournals.com/chicago/news/2014/06/19/illinois-microbead-ban-cosmetics-industry-largely.html?r=full
Until next time, a fabulous my friends!
Food for Thought: Veggie-Based AntiAging Skin Care!
I will not pretend to be an expert in the realm of hormones. Not at all. In fact, I am perplexed by how intensely women are affected by hormones: hormonal changes, hormonal aging, and hormonal imbalances. Seriously, hormones affect just about everything... from hair growth and loss, kidney function, reproductive organs (obv), skin aging, and uhhh... basically everything. I thought this was a neat line to look into because of how little awareness there is on this topic (myself included, but perhaps a universal issue?) The VENeffect Line was founded by Chicago locals (and sisters!) Rebecca and Cecil Booth. Rebecca Booth, MD is a gynecologist and hormonal expert, who aims to balance the decline of estrogen influence on the skin as we age. She and Cecil designed this line to provide women with a solution to the hormonal aging issue by utilizing their proprietary blend of phytoestrogens in topical products.
Here's what the Booth girls say about PhytoEstrogens and what they do for the skin when applied topically: (click below to go to their site)
Here they are talking about the science behind VENeffect (click below to watch a vid):
http://video.neimanmarcus.com/media/veneffect0212.mp4
From my perspective:
As far as the efficacy of topical phytoestrogen's direct effect on the elasticity/tone of the skin: Hey, it's food for thought! I will leave the hormonal science up to them, and physicians or experts on this topic. What I CAN comment on is my personal experience while experimenting with this line. Here are my top three favorites:
#1 Favorite: I LOVED LOVED LOVED the Anti-Aging Lip Treatment ($85) . This award-winning lip treatment harnesses that 'phytoestrogen technology' to deeply hydrate. I applied twice a day, and really enjoyed the light green-tea-ish fragrance and delicate consistency. It really felt like the skin on and around my lips absorbed the product. While using it, I had no issues with color-bleeding from lipstick, nor did I have any issues with flaky, dry, peely, or cracked lips. LOVED this.
2nd Place: The anti-Aging Eye Treatment ($125) was a nice product, too. I was told by Melissa Moore, (the Product Specialist that educated me here in Chicago) that the founders designed it to work well when applied OVER makeup in case you need a mid-day refresh. I tried it for myself and it did not roll up, ball off, or make my makeup muddy. This was a nice rescue product when my allergies caused me to wake up with puffiness, and when I got too little sleep a few times during the week.
3rd: The Firming Neck and Decollate ($155) product is another winner in my book for it's rich, yet not-greasy consistency.
I look forward to continuing to learn more about phytoestrogens and their impact on hormonally aging skin. But in the meantime, at least I found my current favorite lip product! (So at least I can look good, even if I'm not totally sure why!)
E's 3 Current Faves: a Sunscreen for Everyone
Here's a blog post I wrote for work, Erickson Cosmetic Dermatology. Enjoy! =)
Mohs Surgery... Nose Surgery??? Moe's Surgery??
What is Mohs surgery?
Lately, I've been working like crazy to help launch a brand new cosmetic dermatology office on Michigan Avenue in Chicago. The highly credentialed and super smart dermatologist (Dr. Quenby Erickson, who is my boss, the owner, and the medical director all-in-one) is board certified and fellowship trained in Mohs Surgery. Sometimes, when I'm bragging about how talented Dr. Erickson is, people will say: "NOSE surgery??" No, actually: MOHS Surgery. Here's what it is:
Named for Frederic Mohs (1910-2002), this specialty surgical procedure allows the physician to remove the cancer while sparing as much healthy tissue as possible.
With more than 2 Million Americans estimated to be affected by skin cancer this year, Mohs Micrographic surgical technique is more in-demand than ever. In addition to Mohs, Dr. Erickson also really enjoys the reconstruction aspect, which has saved patients from disfigurement. It's a pretty great process.
Step 1: A conservative amount of tissue is removed. Step 2: While the patient waits, the tissue will be examined under a microscope to see if the margins are clear Step 3: If the margins are clear, the patient is good to go. Slightly more tissue will be removed and the steps will be repeated only if the margins aren't clear.
Imagine if you had a cancerous lesion on your cheek (yikes). You'd want the cancer to be gone, but with the smallest amount tissue removed as possible. Beyond that, you'd want to be reconstructed beautifully. That's what a Mohs surgeon can do for you. (Sometimes, closures can be sent out to a plastic surgeon). As Dr. Erickson says: "Removing tissue from a person's back is one thing; it becomes a bigger deal on the lip, eyelid or nose." Glad to have you, Mohs surgeons!!
Click here for what sets fellowship-trained Mohs surgeons apart from the rest, and click here for patient information on Mohs surgery.
Until next time: Stay Fabulous, (and wear your sunscreen!!) My Friends!
Dermaplaning: Don't be Scared
Ever thought Dermaplaning looked scary-as-heck? You're not alone! What is it?? Also known as epidermal leveling, Dermaplaning is an expert technique which gently removes superficial, rough skin with the use of a modified surgical utensil (that's the nice way to say SCALPEL). This specialized treatment leaves the skin glowing and refreshed. Here's the secret: No, it doesn't hurt! AND, it's actually more gentle (and effective at removing superficial, dead/damaged tissue) than lots of other aesthetic treatments.
Here's me performing a dermaplane:
Who is it good for? Dermaplaning is safe for almost all skin types. It's not so great for really active acne or for people with really thick hair growth on the face. It's actually a great alternative to microdermabrasion: much more gentle and much more effective at removing stratum corneum!!! Ok, people also love it because it removes peach-fuzz. For those of you who love that part, I mentioned it! Are you happy?? =)
DP treatments result in a more refined, smooth, “glowing” appearance. Because Dermaplaning does not require the use of chemicals to exfoliate, it is often appropriate for those with certain skin allergies or sensitivities, even rosacea... no kidding!
What to Expect: Dermaplaning is actually a no-downtime, gentle refinement. You might expect your at-home products to absorb more quickly than usual, and your makeup to go on more smoothly than usual. (so use caution if you are using strong exfoliants or harsher products!) If it is determined to be appropriate for your skin, a mild chemical peel, cryogen therapy, or a masque treatment may be applied during your treatment. It's sort of like a choose-your-own adventure book. Remember those? If you do, you might look into dermaplaning for it's anti-aging benefits. (That was supposed to be funny!!)
Locally, I enjoy teaching other professionals to dermaplane. This comfortable treatment is a patient-favorite and a specialty of our office, and may be a specialty of an office near you soon!! =)
Until next time, stay fabulous my friends!
E
The Chicken, the Egg, and The Changing Aesthetic Landscape
As I write, I am here in San Francisco at the The Aesthetic Academy meetings. Yesterday I took the Certified Aesthetic Consultant Exam and should have my results in 2-3 weeks. (Keep your finger crossed for me!) And now that the hard work is over, I can take a deep breath, sit back, and learn. A handful of the nation’s top aesthetic physicians are here presenting their favorite technologies for non-surgical rejuvenation, fat reduction and anti-aging. I'm noting a continuous theme with every. single. presentation.
The theme: the industry landscape is changing. For example: in 1997 (and maybe even 2007) a person might go to a doctor, have a surgery, and ride off into the sunset. These days, informed consumers are seeking more progressive solutions with little or no downtime. They have high expectations, plenty of options, and do lots of research. They aren’t jumping into invasive surgeries. In fact, according to ASAPS, the surgical segment of our industry is only experiencing growth of 3% each year, whereas non-surgical procedures are growing over 10% each year. As I listen, I agree… as a Service Provider, a Practice Manager, and as a patient myself. People want procedures that are better, faster, and easier to recover from.
From my perspective, I see these savvy, well-informed patients demanding these advancements. And I also see (especially at the industry conferences) that the technology is getting better. But I wonder: is the technology getting better because the market demands it? Or are people starting to access these treatments because the new, effective, non-invasive options are finally available? Which came first? The chicken or the egg?
Whichever scenario is happening, the technology is getting better. Science is looking to affect the skin/tissues on a molecular level. We are hearing more and more about changing 'the behavior' of the tissue. I even heard the phrase “reprogramming genes like software”. Indeed, genes are kind of like little strings of data, not unlike software. Heating, cooling, and using all types of energies to manipulate, denature, and contract are becoming the methods of choice for patients AND practitioners. Very interesting. So while plenty of facelifts are still happening, it sounds like the future of medicine is going 'molecular'.
Here are the buzz-worthy, popular topics for non-surgical and non-invasive technologies here at the show:
- Microneedling
- Diodes
- RF Devices (radiofrequency, now with less treatments)
- Enzymes, Stem Cells in Skin Care
- IPL, Photo Facial (oldie but a goodie)
- Circumferential Reduction, (Body Contouring and Fat Reduction)
- (Still trying for a great) Skin Tightening modality
- Cellulite Treatments (still nothing permanent, but looking good in the temporary-realm!)
- Micro-cannulas (for injecting soft tissue fillers like Juvederm)
- Voluma (the new filler from Allergan)
More to come from San Francisco!
In the meantime, Stay Fabulous, My Friends!
Alert, Alert!! New Obagi Medical Products System, available next week!!
My lovely Obagi representative just alerted me to a new Obagi Medical Products line, specifically designed for those in their 20's and 30's, but likely appropriate for anyone who may not want or need an Rx Tretinoin (or anything 'hardcore', per se). She didn't have any literature to send me yet, but referred me to the Youtube vid here... which, at the time that I viewed it, only had 63 views!! This is new, hot off the press!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjKvHbZAxf4
Obagi 360 features only 3 products: an exfoliating cleanser, a retinol .5 to use at night, and a hydrating broad-spectrum SPF. This line promises simplicity, gentle care, an emphasis on consistency and routine, and maintenance! Well done, Obagi... can't wait to hear more!!
Until next time, stay fabulous my friends!