Anti-Aging: A new reason why you need more than just UV protection

Fact: UV isn't the only cause of skin aging from the sun... You need protection from IR, too.

That's right: Just when you thought you had it the whole anti-aging thing down, science is showing we have more than UV radiation to worry about: infrared radiation (IR or IRA)

What is infrared?

IR makes up more than half of the solar spectrum. IR penetrates deeper into the skin than UV rays. -This is a scary thought, because  well, deeper in the skin means more damage to the skin. 

"Infrared radiation lies between the visible and microwave portions of the electromagnetic spectrum. Infrared waves have wavelengths longer than (the) visible ... the primary source of infrared radiation is heat or thermal radiation... The higher the temperature, the more the atoms and molecules move and the more infrared radiation they produce."

...According to California Institute of Technology's CoolCosmos.com Read the whole article here 

IR manifests itself as heat on the skin, so when you're outside and you're feeling the heat, IR is doing it's evil work on your subcutaneous layers.

So, what does this mean for your skin??

Basically, THIS: (see pic)

IR causes free-radical production deep in the skin, essentially cooking the skin, causing free radicals to form, creating damage, hyperpigmentation, and of course: wrinkles. See my post on Free Radicals here.

What can you do?

It takes anti-oxidants to neutralize damage, along with broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect. A couple of my fave go-to "superscreens" combine the two for you:

SkinMedica's Total Defense + Repair line features cosmetically-elegant superscreens in both tinted and not-tinted versions. I love this one.

Another newer and fabulous superscreen is Obagi's Sun Shield TINT SPF 50, providing a matte finish and two shades to choose from: Cool and Light.

These easy-to use IR-defense products are making it easy to protect from UV and IR on a daily basis.

Check them out, give them a try this summer, and until next time: stay fabulous, my friends!

The Skincare Ingredient You Didn't Know You Were Missing

Neocutis has long been known as a skin care leader for their innovations in growth factor technology. (Read more about that here)  The newest NEOCUTIS skin care line, MICRO•ESSENTIALS, is now available - and after weeks of experimentation, I can confidently say: I'm nuts about it. This brand new class of anti-aging brings a new addition ingredient to skin care - So what IS the newest thing, you ask?

The short answer: A brand new blend of peptides.

The short answer, explained: Inspired by matrikine technology, MPC™ (Micro Protein Complex) uses a new blend of peptides to help defend against and correct the visible signs of skin aging.

What will these fancy peptides actually do for me, you ask?

• They stimulate Collagen 1, 3, and 7 (7 is the kind way deep down there, helping with "foundational" support of the skin. Think firm!)
•  They stimulate your own production of Hylauronic Acid (HA). HA might sound familiar, it's a popular ingredient in moisturizers, hydrating serums, and fillers like Juvederm and Restylane. It'll keep your skin plump and hydrated.
• They stimulate elastin synthesis. This is exciting, there's not many products/ingredients out there that'll do this.

The NEOCUTIS MICRO•ESSENTIALS line includes five products to help you kick butt in the anti-aging department:

MICRO•DAY™ Rejuvenating Cream:

• Broad-spectrum Sunscreen with SPF 30
• An all-in-one for the girl on the go, this moisturizing product also delivers anti-oxidant protection
• Tinted and creamy, yet sheer and satiny consistency is lovely to apply and great for most all skin types

MICRO•NIGHT™ Rejuvenating Cream 

• Finally... A great anti-aging product that isn't too heavy, but still restores moisture. It's about time we had a new product in this category.
• Smooths skin and improves firmness while you sleep.

MICRO•EYES™ Rejuvenating Cream 

• If you like Lumiere, you'll LOVE this
• alleviates the signs of fatigue
• Light consistency, noticeable results
• helps make the delicate skin around the eyes resistant to the signs of aging.
• Safe to use on upper lids too! Woot!

MICRO•SERUM Intensive Treatment 

• The Cadillac of the line, this glorious serum is the highest concentration of our new found peptide friends.
• Absolutely lovely upon application, not sticky or goopy... Just elegant and enjoyable as it smoothed over skin.
• goes beyond fine lines and wrinkles to address additional signs of aging, including elasticity, tone and texture.

MICRO•FIRM: Check out my post about this 5-star product here. I am head-over-heels for this awesome serum-meets-cream rejuvenating and firming intensive treatment!!

If you're interested in adding this new cutting-edge peptide to your regimen, find it at a doctors office near you! And in the meantime, stay fabulous, my friends!

These Villains are the cause of skin damage, Part 2

If we want to look at our anti-aging practices from an informed and discerning perspective, it's good to know what's going on in there that causes wrinkles (and other not-so-fun manifestations of skin aging). So far, we know about three main things that happen in the skin when damage is caused. Click HERE for the 1st Villain I wrote about. Here's the 2nd biochemical phenomenon in my series: •    The Villains: MMP's

Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs) are enzymes -envision Pac-Man!- activated by inflammation.  Inflammation can be caused by elements like UV exposure and infrared radiation. MMPs are not cool because they contribute to the breakdown of collagen. And as if that wasn't bad enough... they also work to inhibit new collagen formation.

For a scholarly article type of resource, check out this white paper on The National Center for Biotechnology Information website. They say Matrix-degrading metalloproteinases are key mediators of collagen degradation that is observed in photoaged skin. Key mediators? Oh man!!

Yikes! What to do now???

Don't freak out, its just one of the biochemical phenomena that results from CHRONIC damage and UV exposure. Let's be proactive about this...  Since we know MMPs are expressed as a result of UV and IR, we have a shot at preventing by using great SPF and using antioxidants. Click here to read more about some of my fave go-to antioxidants. And stay tuned for another edition of Skin Damage Villains, coming soon!

Until Next Time, Stay Fabulous (and Informed!) my friends!

Obagi Aesethetics Leadership Community

I was honored to be recruited to join Obagi Medical Products' Aesthetics Leadership Community last week. The community is an advisory board and network comprised of 100 skin care professionals and practitioners from all over the US. Our kick-off meeting was in Las Vegas at the Wynn.

It was a great experience, they even had a barista just for our meeting group to provide 'the serum of life' (as I call it)! I had a blast and can't wait to continue to contribute throughout 2015!

Obagi Inservice today at Erickson Cosmetic Dermatology Chicago

Thanks, Laura (our fabulous Obagi rep/expert) We always LOVE hearing about the most current updates and developments in the skin care science realm!

Yours Truly,

The skin care pro's at Erickson Cosmetic Dermatology, Laser & MedSpa

=)

PS: we're crazy about the Gentle Rejuvenation products!

(For more on Obagi Gentle Rejuvenation, here's a link: http://obagi.com/patients/product-line/gentle-rejuvenation/results and here's a link to another post about the Gentle Rejuvenation Vitamin C fortified SPF (click to follow the link)!

The Chicken, the Egg, and The Changing Aesthetic Landscape

As I write, I am here in San Francisco at the The Aesthetic Academy meetings.  Yesterday I took the Certified Aesthetic Consultant Exam and should have my results in 2-3 weeks. (Keep your finger crossed for me!) And now that the hard work is over, I can take a deep breath, sit back, and learn. A handful of the nation’s top aesthetic physicians are here presenting their favorite technologies for non-surgical rejuvenation, fat reduction and anti-aging. I'm noting a continuous theme with every. single. presentation.

The theme: the industry landscape is changing. For example: in 1997 (and maybe even 2007) a person might go to a doctor, have a surgery, and ride off into the sunset. These days, informed consumers are seeking more progressive solutions with little or no downtime. They have high expectations, plenty of options, and do lots of research.  They aren’t jumping into invasive surgeries. In fact, according to ASAPS, the surgical segment of our industry is only experiencing growth of 3% each year, whereas non-surgical procedures are growing over 10% each year. As I listen, I agree… as a Service Provider, a Practice Manager, and as a patient myself. People want procedures that are better, faster, and easier to recover from.

From my perspective, I see these savvy, well-informed patients demanding these advancements. And I also see (especially at the industry conferences) that the technology is getting better.  But I wonder: is the technology getting better because the market demands it? Or are people starting to access these treatments because the new, effective, non-invasive options are finally available? Which came first? The chicken or the egg?

Whichever scenario is happening, the technology is getting better. Science is looking to affect the skin/tissues on a molecular level. We are hearing more and more about changing 'the behavior' of the tissue. I even heard the phrase “reprogramming genes like software”.  Indeed, genes are kind of like little strings of data, not unlike software.  Heating, cooling, and using all types of energies to manipulate, denature, and contract are becoming the methods of choice for patients AND practitioners.  Very interesting.  So while plenty of facelifts are still happening, it sounds like the future of medicine is going 'molecular'.

Here are the buzz-worthy, popular topics for non-surgical and non-invasive technologies here at the show:

• Microneedling
• Diodes
• RF Devices (radiofrequency, now with less treatments)
• Enzymes, Stem Cells in Skin Care
• IPL, Photo Facial (oldie but a goodie)
• Circumferential Reduction, (Body Contouring and Fat Reduction)
• (Still trying for a great) Skin Tightening modality
• Cellulite Treatments (still nothing permanent, but looking good in the temporary-realm!)
• Micro-cannulas (for injecting soft tissue fillers like Juvederm)
• Voluma (the new filler from Allergan)

More to come from San Francisco!

In the meantime, Stay Fabulous, My Friends!

Alert, Alert!! New Obagi Medical Products System, available next week!!

My lovely Obagi representative just alerted me to a new Obagi Medical Products line, specifically designed for those in their 20's and 30's, but likely appropriate for anyone who may not want or need an Rx Tretinoin (or anything 'hardcore', per se). She didn't have any literature to send me yet, but referred me to the Youtube vid here... which, at the time that I viewed it, only had 63 views!! This is new, hot off the press!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjKvHbZAxf4

Obagi 360 features only 3 products: an exfoliating cleanser, a retinol .5 to use at night, and a hydrating broad-spectrum SPF. This line promises simplicity, gentle care, an emphasis on consistency and routine, and maintenance! Well done, Obagi... can't wait to hear more!!

Until next time, stay fabulous my friends!

Product Review: Latisse

Word on the Street/Company Claims: Longer, thicker, and darker eyelashes can be yours when you apply this bimatoprost opthamolic solution .03% every night to the lash line (like liquid eyeliner).

They are actually not sure why it works- funny, right? In summary, this product was first available as a glaucoma treatment (Lumigan… but was/is used IN the eye as a medication). Basically, a whole lotta glaucoma patients ended up with a whole lotta fabulous lashes! And so after an FDA trial and a repackage (kinda): Latisse was born.

Appropriate for who?:

People who feel like their lashes could be better… and unless you are one of those people gifted with epic lashes: who doesn’t?

NOT so good for:

Those already undergoing treatment for glaucoma, and those who may be having an upcoming opthamalic surgery or procedure,… ask your doctor.

Totally Fabuliz: (Favorite part):

It ACTUALLY works. If you like to put 2, maybe 3 coats of mascara on, you will fall in love with Latisse (and may even find yourself joining the rest of the 1-coat world!) Measurable change takes place over the course of about 16-18 weeks as your untreated lashes fall out naturally and the Latisse’d lashes cycle in.

Just OK:

I would guesstimate that I’ve seen maybe 2 of every 50 patients experience some eye irritation with this product. So while not often, that can happen. Also, there’s a chance of a pink-ness that can develop on your lids. It happened to me, and will go away as soon as I stop using it. Doesn’t bother me enough to discontinue use AT ALL… You can’t stop me now!! MUAHHahahahah (crazy laugh) … ahem… sorry.

Needs work:

The disposable applicators are not as user friendly as a tube/wand package would be. (kind of like Revitalash). However,  since Latisse had to get FDA approval… they went over–the-top with safety so they could get approved, fast. The instructions say that one brush is to be used on one eye, disposed of, and then another brush used for the other eye. TWO applicators EACH DAY? I’m thinking: We apply mascara to both eyes every day with only one wand! I understand that its indeed a bit different here because there’s no preservative… but listen: You can almost hear the landfills crying.

Star Rating: 4 STARS!!!★★★★

★1 Star: Might pass this one up

★★2 Stars: Okay for the money

★★★3 Stars: Really nice product, I’d buy it

★★★★4 Stars: Pretty much deserves a Nobel Peace Prize, want it/need it/ have to have it!

Misc Notes/Other need-to-know's:

Don’t stop using it. Once you have your results you need to keep going! I don’t have a problem with the thought of maintaining though- once you have your fabulous lashes you want to keep them!!

Check out my other blog post with additional Latisse info here, including a video of how I like to use my Latisse, (but always follow the instructions of your doctor!)

Click here for Allergan’s official Latisse Page. And PS- Definitely join their Brilliant Distinctions reward program so you can earn points for your purchases… you can get coupons for $25 off, $50 off, and even more if you spend enough or have treatments like BOTOX  Cosmetic.

Bottom Line:

I'm a Latisse-r for Life. Love. Love. Love.

ZITS: 5 Break-Glass-In-Case-Of-Emergency Tricks

As I sit here with a blemish so large that I may end up naming him (Thor? Steve? Brutus?), about to get my Kenalog Injection, it occurred to me that I may want to share a few of my emergency acne treatment ideas. Yes, it's true. Even the skincare-obsessed (and skincare professional) will get the occasional blemish. If you are like me, you might have a fabulous dermatologist in your back pocket.  A quick and almost-painless injection of a steroid and will have you like new in 24-48 hours. What I have is called Kenalog- it’s a glucocorticoid corticosteroid meant for intralesional, (meaning: in-the-zit-itself), injection.

This is one of the best 'break glass in case of emergency' treatments before weddings/prom/reunions. There's risk of a scar when you have these injections, so talk it out with your doc. Sometimes the blemish itself threatens a scar, like when it's big enough to have its own name. So depending on your situation, despite the risk you may still opt for the shot.

Don't have a derm? No time for an appointment?

Here are 5 of my top at-home emergency blemish treatments:

Over-the-counter hydrocortisone: 

(I prefer the cream version, but it's also available in an ointment form) you can apply hydrocortisone 1% a couple times a day for up to 7 days to help reduce inflammation and redness.

Ice, Ice, Baby (better yet, cool packs):

Reduce inflammation by holding a cool pack on for 15 minutes at a time, or as long as is comfortable. It's good to do while you're checking email or watching a movie.

Tretinoin (aka Retin-a):

If you have some of this (generally for use all over the facial skin at night) I have found that if you use a dab during the day, it can help to flatten things out a bit faster. Tretinoin is typically for anti-aging and /or acne treatment and prevention- it's a power house prescription. If you don't happen to have any laying around, Salicylic Acid is always a good one to dry and flatten things out. I love Obagi's Clenziderm MD Pore Therapy.

Anti-histamines:

Try taking Benedryl or Claritin, if its appropriate for you (i.e, your md says you're good to go) ... It's all about reducing the inflammation!

BPO:

Benzoyl Peroxide products are awesome for prevention and treatment of the pustule-type of lesions… the yucky ones with the ‘head’ on them. This is because BPO works by bringing oxygen in to murder the anaerobic (O2-hating) bacteria in the follicles. A crazy awesome Rx version is called Acanya, otherwise my fave and most-recommended BPO is Obagi's Therapeutic Lotion.

Of course, always follow the recommendations of your own skin care professional or physician- and may the force be with you!

Product Review: Obagi Medical's Hydrate Facial Moisturizer

Word on the Street/Company Claims: “Hydromanil technology” delivers moisture in a 2 Part Action.

Part 1: There are Hydromanil matrix molecules that stay on the surface of the skin to reduce LOSS of moisture.

Part 2: A water-bearing 3D matrix captures and hold on to water within the skin, continuously releasing moisturizing compounds, increasing moisture for at least 8 hours after you put it on.

Appropriate for who?:

It’s designed for every skin type, and I would agree with that after using it.

It’s got a medium consistency that would please a dryer skin-type, but it dries mostly matte and does not feel heavy or look greasy, which oilier types would love. It is mild enough that I would recommend it to people who are post- chemical peel or using retinoids (or other treatment products) that could compromise the skin too!

Totally Fabuliz: (Favorite part): It didn’t make me break out (Just look at me wrong and I’ll break out!) but I really feel that it improved my dry skin.  I'm also not seeing an increase in pore congestion or any indicators of build-up. There is no scent, so I didn’t have to decide if I liked the smell or not. (no fragrance also usually means non-sensitizing and non-irritating, which is a score!)

Just OK: I suppose the packaging could be splashier? That’s getting picky though.

Needs work: Nothing!

Star Rating: 4 STARS!! ★★★★

★1 Star: Might pass this one up

★★2 Stars: Okay for the money

★★★3 Stars: Really nice product, I’d buy it

★★★★4 Stars: Pretty much deserves a Nobel Peace Prize, want it/need it/ have to have it!

Misc Notes/Other Need-to-Know's:

It's Non-comedogenic and allergy-tested. Obagi says that there is a 51% improvement in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after 8 hours, and a 92% improvement in moisture content of the skin within 2 hours.

I would definitely buy that, since their clinical studies were performed using a Tewameter ® (funny name!) and a Corneometer… this wasn’t an interview of 3 of your best friends who thought they liked it ('3 out of 4 women agree')!

Good work Obagi… I will be recommending this one for sure. 

5 Things to AVOID after a Chemical Peel Treatment

Despite some really awesome (in my opinion!) post-care instruction sheets,  every once in a while we’ll get a phone call from a post-peel patient in distress. These clients, no matter how aesthetically-seasoned, occasionally forget the warnings of their providers, or maybe could have underestimated some post-peel sensitivity (maybe just a bit.) Here are 5 things to surely avoid that are sometimes forgotten in the days after a chemical peel: (-and please always follow the instructions given to you by your skincare office-)

1) Over-moisturizing:

If you over-moisturize, you can make the peeling skin too soft, which can  cause it to come off before it’s ready. This can leave the fresh, baby-like skin underneath exposed and possibly compromised. An additional disadvantage of over-moisturizing includes possibly s-l-o-w-i-n-g the peeling stage… and if you’ve ever had a peel, you know that nobody wants that!! Use just enough moisturizer to make you feel comfortable.

2) Hair-removal:

This includes laser-hair removal on any peeled area (you’ll want to follow your skin-care office’s specific instructions, but I wouldn’t treat someone with laser for at least 10-14 days).  Waxing and shaving are also off-limits because they can remove the skin, so be sure to avoid both. If you have to, simply tweeze.

3) Picking!!:

This one is easier said than done FOR SURE. Its hard not to pick off any little flakes that might be staring back at you in the mirror. But, try to remember that the flakey dead statum-corneum is actually protecting skin that isn’t necessarily ready to be exposed yet. So, even though its annoying…hands off!

4) Excessive Sweating:

Depending on the strength of the treatment, some peels will cause the top layer of skin to get crispy or tight like a thin plastic-wrap… and this could trap sweat underneath the skin. A little bit usually doesn’t cause an issue, but if you visit your usual hot yoga class, you might end up looking like a freshly waxed car after a rain.  Sweat gets trapped under the skin and forms little pockets that look just like those little beads of water… but these droplets don’t wipe off… Yikes!

If this happens, don’t panic- they only look alarming, and aren’t harmful. Give your skin care expert a call and ask how they recommend handling it.

  5) Vacation-Related Activities:

You’ll want to avoid several activities that I like to classify under: ‘Things you’d likely do on Vacay’. These things include Sun Exposure, Swimming (keeping skin wet for extended periods of time AND Chlorine) and having treatments like Facials.- yes, even the ‘natural’ ones.

Remember that we want to treat the skin as if it’s very sensitive in the days after a peel, even if it feels or looks normal. Folllow your provider’s recommendations for post-care and continued treatments, and play it safe with products, sun, and picking, even if it’s tough. Your skin will thank you!!!

Here's a great link to a super-compliant, 5 Star non-picker friend who's documented her experience: check it out!

And always be sure to play by the rules for less irritation and great results from your exfoliation!

Happy Peeling!

La Roche-Posay Thermal Spring Water... for all kinds of hotness!

Thought I'd share one of my faves for comforting the skin post-laser, post-chemical peel, or to refresh and cool when you are just feeling HOT! (Although we know you're always hot! :)) La Roche-Posay Thermal Spring Water, seen here for $13. We used to carry this at the plastic surgery institute I worked for. We loved it! The company tells us that it has a pretty neutral pH, (great as a toner) and it's rich in Selenium, which is to help skin heal faster! Pick it up the next time you're in need... saw this at Walgreens.

Product Storage: You've got 700 Hairsprays. Now What?

This last week has been a whirlwind. Not only did we list our house for sale, but we had 3 showings AND an open house within 30 hours of listing. As a product junkie, its an understatement to say that a few things had to be tidied up. But I wondered: How will I ever hide/display all of my endless beauty paraphernalia so people don’t walk out of the house wondering if a mad scientist lives here?

In my next few entries, I’ll share some cheap, cute, and/or creative solutions I came up with to make being a product junkie live-able AND conducive to selling a home:

To start, here is my home spa room on the lower level of the house, home to a zillion skin care products:

Baskets? Sure, they're cute... but not so creative OR cheap (typically). I needed lots of them in this case, and these little guys came CHEAP in packs of 4 or 5 from Ikea. If I did it again though, I might go with THESE which my mom loves for her office storage. I love how clean they look and IKEA has the best prices for the quality (2-packs in varying sizes for $6.99).

The silver metal case on the shelf is really the AWESOME find in this post. It's from a store called Harbor Freight Tools. 

Baskets from Ikea, and one of the Aluminum cases I got at Harbor Freight

Those who know me may think it’s weird for me to be randomly shopping in this dollar-store-version of a Home Depot, but I resent spending big bucks on utilitarian items. I look at it this way: the more I save here, the more I can spend on skincare and handbags. Right??

Anyway, this aluminum case is perfect to store and travel with makeup, paint/paintbrushes, skincare, and tools too -if you’re into that kind of thing!-  and comes with adjustable dividers and a shoulder strap. Style-wise, it could be a cousin of my expensive Sephora Brand Aluminum makeup kit. It doesn’t feel as high quality as others, but you just can’t beat the price- I actually bought 4! Harbor Freight also offers ‘20% off one item’ coupons, so if you’re stocking up, sign up for their mailing list.

This brings up a good point (if I do say so myself): when you’re looking for a solution, try to think outside the box, or at least try not to default to the most convenient solution.

Here's what I mean: in a casual google search just now, a metal 36" ruler at Dick Blick is $11.25. Then there's our friend Ace, who carries one for $4.49.

Of course, sometimes you get what you pay for, and there are always exceptions.

Many times, makeup and skin care supply/storage can often be found where you're not looking for it: in the kitchen section of a store or maybe the Dollar Spot at Target. You could even re-purpose that collection of fabulous boxes you accumulated when you were on that Louis Vuitton kick (oh, maybe that was just me) but you get the idea...

So the next time you're looking for a storage solution or a new supply, look around and see what you can re-purpose, and keep your eyes open for the less-likely solution. Getting creative may just make your life easier without spending all of your shopping money!