The Skincare Ingredient You Didn't Know You Were Missing

Neocutis has long been known as a skin care leader for their innovations in growth factor technology. (Read more about that here)  The newest NEOCUTIS skin care line, MICRO•ESSENTIALS, is now available - and after weeks of experimentation, I can confidently say: I'm nuts about it. This brand new class of anti-aging brings a new addition ingredient to skin care - So what IS the newest thing, you ask?

The short answer: A brand new blend of peptides.

The short answer, explained: Inspired by matrikine technology, MPC™ (Micro Protein Complex) uses a new blend of peptides to help defend against and correct the visible signs of skin aging.

What will these fancy peptides actually do for me, you ask?

• They stimulate Collagen 1, 3, and 7 (7 is the kind way deep down there, helping with "foundational" support of the skin. Think firm!)
•  They stimulate your own production of Hylauronic Acid (HA). HA might sound familiar, it's a popular ingredient in moisturizers, hydrating serums, and fillers like Juvederm and Restylane. It'll keep your skin plump and hydrated.
• They stimulate elastin synthesis. This is exciting, there's not many products/ingredients out there that'll do this.

The NEOCUTIS MICRO•ESSENTIALS line includes five products to help you kick butt in the anti-aging department:

MICRO•DAY™ Rejuvenating Cream:

• Broad-spectrum Sunscreen with SPF 30
• An all-in-one for the girl on the go, this moisturizing product also delivers anti-oxidant protection
• Tinted and creamy, yet sheer and satiny consistency is lovely to apply and great for most all skin types

MICRO•NIGHT™ Rejuvenating Cream 

• Finally... A great anti-aging product that isn't too heavy, but still restores moisture. It's about time we had a new product in this category.
• Smooths skin and improves firmness while you sleep.

MICRO•EYES™ Rejuvenating Cream 

• If you like Lumiere, you'll LOVE this
• alleviates the signs of fatigue
• Light consistency, noticeable results
• helps make the delicate skin around the eyes resistant to the signs of aging.
• Safe to use on upper lids too! Woot!

MICRO•SERUM Intensive Treatment 

• The Cadillac of the line, this glorious serum is the highest concentration of our new found peptide friends.
• Absolutely lovely upon application, not sticky or goopy... Just elegant and enjoyable as it smoothed over skin.
• goes beyond fine lines and wrinkles to address additional signs of aging, including elasticity, tone and texture.

MICRO•FIRM: Check out my post about this 5-star product here. I am head-over-heels for this awesome serum-meets-cream rejuvenating and firming intensive treatment!!

If you're interested in adding this new cutting-edge peptide to your regimen, find it at a doctors office near you! And in the meantime, stay fabulous, my friends!

Life Savers: The Best Products To Use After A Peel - for Oily and Acne-Prone Skin

If you've ever had a chemical peel (maybe you're recovering from one now) you know that the days after the treatment can be interesting... From trying to apply makeup over dry, flaky skin to explaining to co-workers or significant others that no, you don't have dried milk on your chin, and yes, this is supposed to be happening.  

Besides trying to look as normal as possible, it's very important to use gentle products that won't irritate the skin -or worse for social scenarios- cause additional dryness. 

I thought I'd share my favorite moisturizer and recovery products to use post-procedure, but as always: be sure to follow the instructions given to you by your skin care professional or doctor, and always use plenty of SPF!

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The Best Post-Peel Products for Oily or Acne-Prone Skin Types

LaRoche Posay Thermal Spring Water This versatile product is much more than a can of spray water. Rich in restoring elements like selenium, The water from the thermal springs in LaRoche Posay France has been used historically to treat burn victims, wounds, and critical skin disorders.. It's neutral pH and delicate mister makes it a gentle refresher, toner, and a great way to set mineral make up, even on a daily basis.

Skinmedica TNS Recovery Complex This potent mixture of Human Growth Factors layers under moisturizers and makeup to accelerate the healing process. A light gel formula, it absorbs quickly for a clean finish. This product is also great to use daily for anti-aging, whether you are post procedure or not!

Skinmedica UltraSheer Moisturizer This oil-free, sheer moisturizer won't cause breakouts, nor will it leave you feeling 'eh' in the moisturizing-department, as some lightweight moisturizers will. This potent formula absorbs quickly and boosts the skin's ability to protect itself with multiple forms of Vitamin C and oil-soluble E (antioxidants).

Obagi Hydrate This go-to for clean-finish, medium-weight matte moisturizer is perf' for all of you acne-prone beauties. In my many experiences over the years with Hydrate, I feel confident claiming that it will NOT break you out. I repeat: It will not make you break out.

It's a great medium-weight, middle-of-the-road consistency moisturizer for oilier types that still need hydration. The unique time release formula actually releases moisture to the dermis -yep, way down there- consistently over the course of 8 hours! Read my old-school post on it here. 

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May the Force be With You! And be sure to watch for my next editions of Life Savers: The best post-peel products for All Skin Types, Dry and Mature, and "Trouble Spots". And until next time, stay fabulous my friends!

Life Savers: The Best Products To Use After A Peel - For All Skin Types

If you've ever had a chemical peel (maybe you're recovering from one now) you know that the days after the treatment can be interesting... From trying to apply makeup over dry, flaky skin to explaining to co-workers or significant others that no, you don't have dried milk on your chin, and yes, this is supposed to be happening.  

Besides trying to look as normal as possible, it's very important to use gentle products that won't irritate the skin -or worse for social scenarios- cause additional dryness. 

I thought I'd share my favorite moisturizer and recovery products to use post-procedure, but as always: be sure to follow the instructions given to you by your skin care professional or doctor, and always use plenty of SPF!

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Best for All Skin Types:

Dermalogica Barrier Repair This anhydrous (waterless) moisturizer has just about saved my life in the days after exfoliation. It smoothes over any skin type to disguise and moisturize dry skin, and feels like satin! It also delivers a powerful punch of lasting comfort and healing thanks to it's UltraCalming™ Complex formulation.  A great product to include in your skin care 'wardrobe', this lipid-barrier-reinforcer is a marvelous makeup primer as well!

 

Skinmedica TNS Recovery Complex This potent mixture of Human Growth Factors layers under moisturizers and makeup to accelerate the healing process. A light gel formula, it absorbs quickly for a clean finish. This product is also great to use daily for anti-aging, whether you are post procedure or not!

 

LaRoche Posay Thermal Spring Water This versatile product is much more than a can of spray water. Rich in restoring elements like selenium, The water from the thermal springs in LaRoche Posay France has been used historically to treat burn victims, wounds, and critical skin disorders.. It's neutral pH and delicate mist application make it a gentle refresher, toner, and a great way to set mineral make up, even on a daily basis.

Neocutis BioSerum Neocutis' most potent blend of growth factors, this serum comforts and calms while speeding up the recovery process. With a slightly more milky consistency than TNS recovery complex, this serum might be a good choice if you normally lean towards the dryer side. I recommend using a growth factor as part of a daily regimen for anti-aging (also see TNS Recovery, above).

Obagi Hydrate This go-to for clean-finish, matte moisturizer is perf' for all skin types. Easy to layer over serums or under SPF, Obagi Hydrate is a great one-size-fits-all and easy to incorporate into existing regimens. The unique time release formula actually releases moisture to the dermis -yep, way down there- consistently over the course of 8 hours! Read my old-school post on it here. 

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May the Force be With You! And be sure to watch for my next editions of Life Savers: The best post-peel products for Dry and Mature, Oily and Acne-Prone, and "Trouble Spots". And until next time, stay fabulous my friends!

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Hot off the press! You'll love this New Obagi Sunscreen

Sun Shield Mineral isn’t just an ordinary sunscreen

So excited: this a cosmetically-elegant ALL PHYSICAL BLOCK (This means NO chemical sunscreen) complete with a unique dry, clear, and invisible finish!

Fun Features:

• Paraben FREE
• SPF 50
• Water resistant (40min)
• Appropriate for ALL skin types, even sensitive skin!
• Non-irritating and non-sensitizing
• Light-weight
• Oil-free

Undoing Summer Fun-Damage

This is a perfect product to use all year long, but especially now if you plan to do any procedures this Fall. Tis' the season for undoing Summer Fun-Damage, so you'll want a smooth, easy-to-use, gentle SPF!! (Click here to read more about one of my favorite ways to un-do that Fun-Damage, Halo Laser)

Enjoy, and Until Next Time, Stay Fabulous My Friends!

Yay! A New Clarisonic

  Ok- I'm so excited! This Mia 3 'Sonic Romance' (available at Nordstrom) is super cute! My mom gave it to me! It's totally trumping my old and boring white Clarisonic Pro - I can't wait to use this bad boy! 

A Clarisonic is a great tool to increase the efficacy of your topicals by prepping the skin effectively. It cleanses 6 x better than manual cleansing. This means your expensive and amazing products can penetrate much more effectively. 

Clarisonics are fun and unique because you can customize/choose the 'strength' of the brush for more or less exfoliation. Most models also feature timers so you don't overdo it. My mom and I both love how clean we feel after using these awesome tools - we've both been Clarisonic-users since about 2008... And neither one of us is willing to go without them anymore!

If you do try a cleansing device, I would recommend this one. It's patented sonic technology is much more effective and gentle than a spinning brush, which can (in theory) stress out the capillaries, maybe upset elastin fibers and irritate the skin.

If you try one, enjoy! And until next time, Stay Fabulous my Friends! 

3 Fast Facts: Obagi C Clarifying Serum

I started 3 fast facts because I could go on forever about some of these products... which can make writing about them a little daunting.  Instead of overthinking (and therefore procrastinating), I'll just use this category to finally touch on some of my favorite products & three reasons you might love them too! 

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Obagi C-Clarifying Serum

Obagi C-Clarifying Serum

What can I say except: WOW. This little powerhouse is amazing, and the only of its kind on the market.

➢ Fact 1:

The first and only:

Its unique formula features 10% Vitamin C combined with prescription strength 4% Hydroquinone, the Gold standard treatment for dark spots and discoloration. Prescription strength means that the product is able to penetrate the dermal layers to reduce the over-activity of melanosomes.

Translation: Not only will the Vitamin C work to lighten and brighten, but the power of RX lighteners are in your corner too. It's really under-rated, in my opinion: This product is not only neutralizing free radicals and protecting the skin, improving the appearance of age spots and hyperpigmentation! What more could you want??

➢ Fact 2:

It works. And Fast:

In studies, this product was mostly observed effective at about 4 weeks. In reality, I observe patients (and on my own skin!) notice changes much faster than that. Some people swear up-and-down that they see significant lightening and brightening as soon as a few days! Expect results to continue to get better for up to 4 months. The prevention benefit will continue beyond that, as long as you're still using it.

➢ Fact 3:

Two sizes fit most:

Originally (way back) only available in one formula, this serum is now-a-days available in two 'flavors': Normal to Dry and Normal to Oily, they've thought of everyone here! It will help treat multiple kinds of darkened skin:

•  Freckles
• Age spots
• Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (the 'stain' that's left over after a blemish for example)
• Melasma

Until Next Time, Stay Fabulous, My Friends!

3 Fast Facts: Skinmedica TNS Recovery Complex

I started 3 fast facts because I could go on forever about some of these products... which can make writing about them a little daunting.  Instead of overthinking (and therefore procrastinating), I'll just use this category to finally touch on some of my favorite products & three reasons you might love them too! 

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Three Fast Facts About: SkinMedica TNS Recovery Complex

➢ Fact 1

Growth factors are not something that come naturally to aging skin. Thankfully, SkinMedica has provided us with the #1 growth factor on the market, NouriCel-MD, which is a naturally secreted , physiologically-balanced combo of over 110 human growth factors that are both active and stable. TNS Recovery complex is made up of 93.6% NouriCel-MD (this means it's potent).

Growth Factors like TNS Recovery complex basically play a game of telephone with the skin to unlock it's ability to heal and repair itself. Since age and inflammation basically wound the skin, TNS helps 'heal', improving skin texture, smoothing fine lines, and reducing photo damage.

➢ Fact 2

This nifty red gel is quickly absorbed by the skin. In fact, you've got to be pretty quick about it! This has been a patient favorite for years. I would say that there's almost a cult-like following of TNS among many clients/patients. Many of our patients insist that it almost instantly tightens upon application and won't go without it. Great for all skin types, use AM/PM before all of your other serums and moisturizers.

➢ Fact 3

Since procedures like chemical peels and laser treatments are also a sort of wound, TNS Recovery complex is often times appropriate to use after your peel or laser treatment to help the skin heal quickly and predictably. That's one reason it was called Recovery Complex! (Always check with your doctors office to see what their specific post care instructions are for your procedure). We love it after HALO laser, MicrolaserPeel, pro-fractional laser, chemical peels, after the incisions seal up post-surgical procedures, and all the time!

Here's a link to learn more about it:

http://www.skinmedica.com/skin-care-products/tns-recovery-complex

Until Next time, Stay Fabulous, My Friends!

E's 3 Current Faves: a Sunscreen for Everyone

Here's a blog post I wrote for work, Erickson Cosmetic Dermatology. Enjoy! =)

Before and After: My Obagi Transformation

I think the Spring season gets a lot of credit for renewal and transformation, but Fall is really when I (and clients/patients alike) really get in the mood for change. The summer can be a time when we drop off of our strict regimens and become a bit lax... with schedules, eating, bedtime, skin care, and who-knows-what else. In my opinion, there seems to be something about the changing colors, the crispy air, and the earlier nightfall that seems to make us all think: 'OK, these summer freckles are bothering me. Time for a change', or 'Hey!! I'm suddenly interested in regimented self-care again'. I myself jumped back onto full time Obagi use a couple of weeks ago, and I thought I would share my slightly embarrassing before and after pictures from my first time using the Obagi Nu Derm system. (about 7 or 8 years ago)

I had some issues, as you can see. It's especially tough to have skin trouble when you are a professional aesthetician. After all, how are you supposed to recommend treatments and products for your practice's patients when your own skin is terrible??

Notice the acne, the post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (red spots left-over from acne), melasma (patchy-brown above my lip and on my forehead), freckles, and uneven tone.

I used the Nu Derm system with tretinoin .1% (hardcore!!) religiously for 18 weeks, followed by a maintenance regimen. What a life-changing transformation this was for me! I am so thankful for this line, and have many, many happy clients who would agree.

So if you are in the mood for change yourself, join me in fall transformation! Start using that night-time product instead of falling asleep on the couch at night, jump into that Zumba class, or finally organize your closet by color; whatever blows your hair back! :)

Check out Obagi Medical's website here to learn more about nu derm, and until next time: Stay Fabulous My Friends!

Product Review: Skinceuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense SPF 50

Word on the Street/Company Claims: “This groundbreaking, weightless, 100% physical sunscreen provides water-resistant broad spectrum protection with transparent titanium dioxide and zinc oxide (Z-Cote®*). Enhanced with artemia salina, a plankton extract, this lightweight sunscreen increases skin defenses and resistance to UV and heat stress.

Color-infused technology enhances natural skin tone and boosts daily radiance.”

Appropriate for who?:

Normal, Combination,  Oily, Sensitive… pretty much everyone!

NOT so good for:

For the darkest Fitzpatrick skin types, I suppose the powder-finish would be less ideal, as it could look a bit light/dry-ish. This being said, it is still better than almost any other physical-only formulation I’ve used on dark skin.

Those who desire a dewey, super-hydrated finish may not prefer the mattefying quality of this product.

Totally Fabuliz: (Favorite part):

Copy-Cats have tried with similar consistencies and claims, but product is unique and fabulous because of it’s PHYSICAL-ONLY, chemical-sunscreen-FREE  formulation. This means more broad-spectrum protection with less irritation- this is normally only achieved with HEAVY, white creams!

Just OK:

I wish the larger, limited-edition 4.2 fl oz size could be available all year round!!

Needs work:

The smaller, ‘regular’ 1.7 fl oz has a screw-on top. I’d love to see the flip top from the limited edition size make it’s way to this always-available version.

Star Rating:

4 STARS!!!★★★★

★1 Star: Might pass this one up

★★2 Stars: Okay for the money

★★★3 Stars: Really nice product, I’d buy it

★★★★4 Stars: Pretty much deserves a Nobel Peace Prize, want it/need it/ have to have it!

Misc Notes/Other need-to-know's:

-Shake it before you use it, so it mixes up thoroughly.

-I’m obsessed with this very-slightly tinted formulation because takes the “white” out of a titanium/zinc sunscreen. This product may also be the only sunscreen that men will readily use, because of the clean/non-goopy finish. It leaves a silky, natural and texture afterward, and almost feels like a favorite makeup primer.

Bottom Line:

No, it doesn’t smell like coconuts, and it won’t make your eyes sting either- all of our usual sunscreen-skipping excuses are flattened. Well done, Skinceuticals!

"I LOVE re-applying Suncreen!" ...Said no one. Ever.

So, even as an anti-aging obsessed skin-cancer prevention advocate, I have to be honest: reapplying sunscreen is the pits. Maybe you have makeup on... maybe your hands aren't clean and there isn't a sink nearby... maybe you just don't feel like slathering goop all over the place! Here's a nice solution to the re-application challenge: Sunscreen powder. If you haven't tried one of these, it's worth a go. Mostly all of them are appropriate for anyone 6 months of age and over, and they are NOT MAKEUP. This means you can put it over your existing makeup, or apply it to an unsuspecting husband, boyfriend, or son.

Here's a link to my favorite one so far, Colorescince Sunforgettable: http://jxeqr.jklky.servertrust.com/product_p/brush50.htm

I would personally get the medium, (I am a somewhat fair caucasian) because the light is pretty darn light and the darkest one can start to look really dark and almost muddy on light or medium skin if you reapply more than once (the whole reason we are using sunscreen powder, right? ...to re-apply!!!)

If you don't already own a spray brush cleaner, I would probably get one so you can clean the brush in between uses.  GloMinerals is my favorite, who's brush cleaner actually smells AMAZING (almost like strawberries, but better!) and dries a little faster than some: http://www.gloprofessional.com/brush-cleaner

Now get out there and re-apply!! :)

ZITS: 5 Break-Glass-In-Case-Of-Emergency Tricks

As I sit here with a blemish so large that I may end up naming him (Thor? Steve? Brutus?), about to get my Kenalog Injection, it occurred to me that I may want to share a few of my emergency acne treatment ideas. Yes, it's true. Even the skincare-obsessed (and skincare professional) will get the occasional blemish. If you are like me, you might have a fabulous dermatologist in your back pocket.  A quick and almost-painless injection of a steroid and will have you like new in 24-48 hours. What I have is called Kenalog- it’s a glucocorticoid corticosteroid meant for intralesional, (meaning: in-the-zit-itself), injection.

This is one of the best 'break glass in case of emergency' treatments before weddings/prom/reunions. There's risk of a scar when you have these injections, so talk it out with your doc. Sometimes the blemish itself threatens a scar, like when it's big enough to have its own name. So depending on your situation, despite the risk you may still opt for the shot.

Don't have a derm? No time for an appointment?

Here are 5 of my top at-home emergency blemish treatments:

Over-the-counter hydrocortisone: 

(I prefer the cream version, but it's also available in an ointment form) you can apply hydrocortisone 1% a couple times a day for up to 7 days to help reduce inflammation and redness.

Ice, Ice, Baby (better yet, cool packs):

Reduce inflammation by holding a cool pack on for 15 minutes at a time, or as long as is comfortable. It's good to do while you're checking email or watching a movie.

Tretinoin (aka Retin-a):

If you have some of this (generally for use all over the facial skin at night) I have found that if you use a dab during the day, it can help to flatten things out a bit faster. Tretinoin is typically for anti-aging and /or acne treatment and prevention- it's a power house prescription. If you don't happen to have any laying around, Salicylic Acid is always a good one to dry and flatten things out. I love Obagi's Clenziderm MD Pore Therapy.

Anti-histamines:

Try taking Benedryl or Claritin, if its appropriate for you (i.e, your md says you're good to go) ... It's all about reducing the inflammation!

BPO:

Benzoyl Peroxide products are awesome for prevention and treatment of the pustule-type of lesions… the yucky ones with the ‘head’ on them. This is because BPO works by bringing oxygen in to murder the anaerobic (O2-hating) bacteria in the follicles. A crazy awesome Rx version is called Acanya, otherwise my fave and most-recommended BPO is Obagi's Therapeutic Lotion.

Of course, always follow the recommendations of your own skin care professional or physician- and may the force be with you!

Product Review: Obagi Medical's Hydrate Facial Moisturizer

Word on the Street/Company Claims: “Hydromanil technology” delivers moisture in a 2 Part Action.

Part 1: There are Hydromanil matrix molecules that stay on the surface of the skin to reduce LOSS of moisture.

Part 2: A water-bearing 3D matrix captures and hold on to water within the skin, continuously releasing moisturizing compounds, increasing moisture for at least 8 hours after you put it on.

Appropriate for who?:

It’s designed for every skin type, and I would agree with that after using it.

It’s got a medium consistency that would please a dryer skin-type, but it dries mostly matte and does not feel heavy or look greasy, which oilier types would love. It is mild enough that I would recommend it to people who are post- chemical peel or using retinoids (or other treatment products) that could compromise the skin too!

Totally Fabuliz: (Favorite part): It didn’t make me break out (Just look at me wrong and I’ll break out!) but I really feel that it improved my dry skin.  I'm also not seeing an increase in pore congestion or any indicators of build-up. There is no scent, so I didn’t have to decide if I liked the smell or not. (no fragrance also usually means non-sensitizing and non-irritating, which is a score!)

Just OK: I suppose the packaging could be splashier? That’s getting picky though.

Needs work: Nothing!

Star Rating: 4 STARS!! ★★★★

★1 Star: Might pass this one up

★★2 Stars: Okay for the money

★★★3 Stars: Really nice product, I’d buy it

★★★★4 Stars: Pretty much deserves a Nobel Peace Prize, want it/need it/ have to have it!

Misc Notes/Other Need-to-Know's:

It's Non-comedogenic and allergy-tested. Obagi says that there is a 51% improvement in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after 8 hours, and a 92% improvement in moisture content of the skin within 2 hours.

I would definitely buy that, since their clinical studies were performed using a Tewameter ® (funny name!) and a Corneometer… this wasn’t an interview of 3 of your best friends who thought they liked it ('3 out of 4 women agree')!

Good work Obagi… I will be recommending this one for sure. 

La Roche-Posay Thermal Spring Water... for all kinds of hotness!

Thought I'd share one of my faves for comforting the skin post-laser, post-chemical peel, or to refresh and cool when you are just feeling HOT! (Although we know you're always hot! :)) La Roche-Posay Thermal Spring Water, seen here for $13. We used to carry this at the plastic surgery institute I worked for. We loved it! The company tells us that it has a pretty neutral pH, (great as a toner) and it's rich in Selenium, which is to help skin heal faster! Pick it up the next time you're in need... saw this at Walgreens.